Hey, look at those white guys ...

Look at the photo below, gaze at the billowing, cotton-puff clouds and notice the placid sheep ...

... no - cows!

I don't know why, but I've been somewhat fascinated by the herds of 
white cows I see standing around here by the roadsides. 

So stark in comparison to the black & white or russet colored cows that
speckle the California fields. (By the way, their legs aren't black - 
that's just mud.) These girls are hanging out in a marshy area 
on the northern perimeter of Staffanstorp, alongside a bike path.

For sure there are cows of other colors, black, brown, dun,
spotted, mingling among the crowd. But there are enough
white cows here in Skåne that I had to stop and gawk. 

I now know if you search "white cows" on the internet, you'll find an
abundance of fair-haired bovine breeds. Roger thinks these might
unfortunately be destined for the slaughterhouse. At least they
seem to being enjoying their days before their end time; 
no insane Harris Hell Ranch for these boys and girls.

Less is More

Last week I returned to Moderna Museet in Malmö to see the Irving Penn photo exhibit. It was a good show - always exciting to see photographs in person that I've only seen in books/magazines/reproductions, as well as new ones. I'm reminded how great Penn's sense of composition was.

Two thoughts stood out for me during this exhibit. One, it felt almost nostalgic to see silver-gelatin & platinum/palladium prints again. And these were beautifully printed. I swear while I was walking through the show, I could smell the darkroom. (Roger said he just smelled the fresh paint on the walls.) For the non-photo folks or just young people, the photos in this exhibit were all printed in the darkroom with toxic, stinky chemicals which create lovely, luminous photographs in beautiful black, white, and gray tones. Granted digital prints are really good these day, but sometimes the difference is there.

My second thought about the show: less is more, at least it can be in the museum. Malmö's Moderna Museet is small for a museum, but it does a good job of using the space without overcrowding the walls and space. Less works on display, but then only the really strong pieces make the cut. And it frees up a visitor to spend more time enjoying favorite pieces, as opposed to the big blockbuster show where one is compelled to keep moving so as to see everything in gallery after gallery. I'm talking to you, SFMOMA.

The photos displayed on this diagonal wall are some of
Penn's  portraits taken against his angled backdrops.
I like the creative installation!

Louisiana Museum

In between rainy days, I had a great Sunday outing to Denmark's Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. After a smoothly-scheduled, relaxing trip including two trains and a ferry, I was treated to my first visit to this beautiful museum. 

The Louisiana has a lot to offer aside from its international art collection. For starters, it has a fantastic seaside location just outside Copenhagen. Then there's the amazing sculpture garden with different "outdoor galleries" to enjoy the art and views, not to mention the perfect picnic spots. Decent restaurant and giftshop/bookstore always a plus, and a dedicated children's wing! There are several indoor exhibition spaces, but with our train schedule we only visited the latest show: New Nordic - Architecture and Identity. (For a quick peek, check  out this video.)

Jeff and Leticia, wish you were here! The New Nordic show revolves around the question "What is Nordic?" Artists, designers, writers, architects, and other cultural notables from Denmark (including Greenland), Finland, Iceland, Norway and Sweden visually answered with small, dioramas in a variety of media. Another aspect of the show highlighted Nordic architecture - how the use of landscape, light, materials, and communal spaces create a unifying cultural sensibility. Photographs and architectural models were displayed in a gratifyingly accessible and interesting way. Another component of the show was videos and photos which pushed the question on how urban public spaces are being used, for better or for worse. 

For me, it was a really satisfying and exciting introduction to the museum. I thought the curator(s) did a great job in selecting and connecting the pieces and themes. The exhibition design and installation looked wonderful, and felt comfortable to wander through. The text was succinct and informative, without being didactic or abstract (my pet peeve). And while there was a lot to see it was manageable, and with a good ratio of interactive components. Thoughtful, educational, and inspiring - the way I like art. 

Great art.

Great views.

Navigationally-challenged visitor.

So cool! I think it was actually the first time I've seen one of
Calder's outdoor pieces responding to the wind. 

If I was a Henry Moore piece, I'd want to recline here too.

One of the two indoor dining areas. Like a greenhouse for humans.

I had a fried celery root sandwich. The Danes and Swedes include a
lot of roots & tubers in their cuisine ... and mayonnaise.

This was the start of the exhibition, in a wide corridor with natural
light. I really liked how the text panels were cards suspended
alongside the dioramas. On one side the text is in Danish, the
other side translated in English. Somehow it felt more intimate
to handle the cards and peer into the boxes.

Knitting references popped up a few times during
the exhibit. Made me think about my friend, Michelle,
explaining to me not long ago about yarnbombing.
I love how knitting is making it's comeback!

On display are 5 Nordic Houses, each one designed by a
different architect to represent the regional identity of
their country. In the foreground is the Finnish House, and
behind is the Icelandic House.

I didn't quite "get" the Icelandic House, other
than noting the volcanic rocks at the base.
Maybe this requires a visit to Iceland...

The Norwegian House. Visitors could walk
into/through each of the five structures.

This gallery displayed photos, plans and models of public buildings with
the "Nordic" aesthetic and sensibilities. I thought the exhibition design
was really cool. I liked the use of vertical space and "lightbox" pedestals.
Lots to see, but nothing felt cramped. 

"Lightbox" pedestals with backlit transparency images 
and rear-projection videos - nice.

Just had to include this - a model-maker with a sense of
humor! Note the little figure passed out in the model
of Denmark's Centre for Cancer & Health.

In this gallery there were video clips projected on one wall and
each of the standing poles contained a touch screen display
which visitors could scroll through photos, drawings, text about
the development/redevelopment of specific public spaces.

Sommarstangt

Oh, oh, oh - falling behind with the posts. I guess I'm in the sommarstangt mode. Sommarstangt means "closed for summer," but here it's a word. And important to know, because from what I can tell half the Swedish population seems to go on summer holiday during July & August. Government services and many businesses wind down, plodding along until the other half of the staffers return tanned and rested so that the other half can take their turns at vacation.

As an American it seem altogether too humane to me. 

At the same time, as a former San Franciscan (quite the expensive place to live) and art educator (quite the underpaid profession), it's a good change of pace. I'm watching with fascination and appreciation as the population around me slows down and enjoys life. 


But I'll get cracking at some new postings soon.

Flädersaft

"Saft, saft, hallonsaft. Bättre saft har ingen haft!"

Juice, juice, raspberry juice. We've never had a better juice.

That's a Smurf song that Roger told me about years ago when explaining the wonderfulness that is Swedish saft. Saft is basically a cold drink consisting of a simple sugar syrup and some lovely, summery flavor. It reminds me of the agua frescas I fanatically sucked down in Honduras, but sweeter. In Sweden, berry saft seems most common - lingonberry, raspberry, blackberry, strawberry, red currant. But there is also elderflower and rhubarb saft, and probably many more that I haven't come across yet. Saft is easily purchased in a concentrate form to be diluted with water. Ikea is an easy source for some samples. 

Last month, Ruby and I invited ourselves to my sister-in-law's elderflower/fläderblommor harvesting. She makes flädersaft (here is a similar recipe) every year, and I was eager to sample her homemade brew. We set out after dinner and walked around Lund clipping the fragrant elderflower clusters from the bushy trees growing along pathways and parks. Now that I can recognize the creamy white blooms, I realize the elderberry trees are ubiquitous in Skåne (apparently throughout Europe), with the flowers and berries used in a jams, drinks, wines, even fritters. Several years ago, Fanta even came up with a elderflower drink and crazy marketing campaign for Eastern Europe & India - Fanta Shokata!

Well, Carola's saft was delicious. It reminds me a little of passionfruit. I mix up a glass of flädersaft whenever I have a hankering for a taste of spring and sunshine, especially since this summer is proving to be a rainy one. 

Enjoying the fruits ...

 and flowery saft, of our labor. :)

Raspberry and rhubarb saft at a local shop.

Midsommar/Midsummer

Last week, June 20 was summer solstice for our northern hemisphere. Which means I finally had my long-anticipated introduction to the Swedish Midsummer celebration! In prior trips to Sweden, we never coordinated our travel dates to include Midsummer. But I know about the Maypole tradition and Swedish strawberry appreciation, and having read about May Day celebrations as a kid and soaked up my friend Kim's stories about her childhood May Day remembrances in the U.S.'s midwest, I was excited about experiencing it firsthand.

Despite the rain forecast I was determined to see a Majstång/Maypole, and my Swedish family kindly indulged and Roger found a celebration just north of Lund. In hindsight, I can see now that it's an event for kids, or for those who are a little kitschy or adamant about sustaining cultural traditions. But in my mind, sometimes it's good to be a kid again, or to indulge your inner kitsch, or to remind oneself why the traditions exist.

In Sweden, regardless of the actual solstice date, Midsommar is a 2-day national holiday taking place on an adjacent Friday (when most of the celebrating occurs) and Saturday (I guess for recuperating from the hangover). It's a big deal here, and why shouldn't summer be a big deal after a long, dark, cold winter? 

The Maypole makes its appearance on Friday (remember in Sweden, it doesn't show up on May Day), and flitting about are the young girls with flower wreaths on their heads. The rain-soaked celebration we attended, (yes - my luck: it was warm and sunny the day before and clear the day after, but Friday we were huddled under our umbrellas) there was the pole, dancing, music, and of course coffee and snacks. Simple and so sweet, and for me it seemed abundant and sincere with good humor & good cheer.

For many that forego the community Maypole celebrations, Midsummer seems to be a time to relax with family and friends and enjoy the traditional meal of pickled herring, créme fraiche, chives, boiled new potatoes, fresh strawberries, snaps (shots of aquavit), and beer. A lot of simple flavors combining to create a light and refreshing summer evening repast. My mother-in-law created a beautiful dinner spread. I sampled everything and enjoyed it all - except for the herring which I don't think I would eat again even if I weren't vegetarian.

For me, Midsummer feels like a Swedish Thanksgiving (but with more alcohol) - traditional food with seasonal and positive associations, shared with loved ones, and followed with televised sports. Yep, it's the European Football (Soccer) Championship; Sweden's out.

Here's the photos, but check back in a week and hopefully I can edit and upload some goofy videos too.

Although the celebration was on the northern outskirts of Lund,
the setting was sweetly idyllic & pastoral. Roger mentioned
hobbit and shire at some point.

The weather was less idyllic, but no matter. Look at all the hardy souls
with spirits undampened. That dog is even smiling.

"Hmm, this is interesting."

And so is this...

Raising the Majstång.

Let the dancing begin!

This fellow, who stepped out of the 1800's, sang and called out the
dance instructions (Ruby and I faked like we knew what we were doing).

It's just possible I was more enthused 
than Ruby about dancing around the Maypole.

Fika, the Swedish equivalent of the Brits' tea time, includes
coffee, snacks - here it was baked goods, and for Midsummer also
elderberry and ligonberry juices.

Ruby got her pony fix for the day. Lucky for her, 
there are horses everywhere we go.

I believe these fun folks are wearing samples of Skåne's folkdräkter
(scroll down in the link for English translation), traditional clothing.
Each province has its own recognizable costume.

Radishes, chives, matjessill/pickled herring, créme fraiche mixed with dill & caviar.

My mother-in-law dressed up the new potatoes for us vegetarians.
Traditionally they're served boiled and unadorned.

Beer and snaps - perhaps crucial in washing down the herring.

A traditional Midsommar dinner, with some smoked salmon
thrown in for good measure.

And the perfect ending...

... or alternatively, this may be the perfect ending for some folks.
This aquavit had a nice hint of anise, and gave a warm "glow" to the meal.

Moderna Museet

- I chose a new template/new look for the blog - some visual spring cleaning so to speak. Maybe it's that Scandinavian design aesthetic filtering in...

A few Sundays ago, Ruby, her Aunt Carola, and I visited the modern art museum in Malmö. Moderna Museet is a state-owned museum in Stockholm, and three years ago in a collaboration with the city of Malmö and Skåne province a subsidiary site of the museum was opened in Malmö in a renovated electricity plant. (To my former colleagues at the DeYoung and Palo Alto Art Center - check out the museum link and be prepared for website envy. I love how aesthetically it's so clean and efficient, and easy to navigate. Very user friendly, even in the English translation!)

The last Sunday in the month is "Family Sunday" and of course, I had to check it out. It's always fun to visit another museum's education programs and experience it as just a happy-go-lucky member of the art-loving public. The program is pretty much the same model as what I've taught at the DeYoung museum in San Francisco. I guess it's the standard these days - a kids tour and related art activity. 

The exhibit was "The Girl, The Monster, and The Goddess," artwork by Niki de Saint Phalle. Our group was small, the tour was short and sweet as it should be, and the art activity was ... a little underwhelming (as far as I understood it "paint a monster of your own creation" was pretty much the only prompt). Still the kids were focused and engaged; who doesn't like smushing and smearing paint around on paper?

One observation that gave me a good chuckle: walking into the workshop I realized the teaching artist was giving an introduction and, although I didn't comprehend a single Swedish word of it, I pretty much understood everything she was saying from having repeated it myself thousands of times over the past 13 years - right down to the part where she raised her hand and wiggled her fingers to explain how we can't touch the artwork because the oils in our fingerprints are damaging. I guess there is an universal mantra spoken by museum kids' docents worldwide. :)

To get a better view of the new facade, visit the link. I like the exterior
design, except that the name of the museum disappears 
once the cafe/giftshop window coverings are opened.

Here's our fearless art educator in action.

Getting up close and personal with the art - except for Ruby hanging 
out at the back.

I had studio envy.

I'm including this because Ruby took this photo of her aunt and 
I thought, "wow, pretty good shot!"

Here's the entrance to the education studio, visible and accessible 
from the adjoining gallery space. I liked that the studio is open 
at all times, even without workshops taking place, so that the 
public can see the ongoing children's projects.

Again with the studio envy! Lots of natural light and feels like a 
working studio space. The industrial clutter on the left is a remnant of 
the electricity plant, a nice reminder of the history of the building.

This is a nice group project on color - note the pixelized portrait
 being referenced on the left. For a better overall view of the project,
scroll up to the previous photo.

Another fun display in the studio, put together with audience 
participation - each thought bubble contains a viewer's speculation
on what is being portrayed in the artwork.

A nice touch to the coatroom lockers - each locker has an artist's 
name on its front and a quote on the inside.