Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Midsommar/Midsummer

Last week, June 20 was summer solstice for our northern hemisphere. Which means I finally had my long-anticipated introduction to the Swedish Midsummer celebration! In prior trips to Sweden, we never coordinated our travel dates to include Midsummer. But I know about the Maypole tradition and Swedish strawberry appreciation, and having read about May Day celebrations as a kid and soaked up my friend Kim's stories about her childhood May Day remembrances in the U.S.'s midwest, I was excited about experiencing it firsthand.

Despite the rain forecast I was determined to see a Majstång/Maypole, and my Swedish family kindly indulged and Roger found a celebration just north of Lund. In hindsight, I can see now that it's an event for kids, or for those who are a little kitschy or adamant about sustaining cultural traditions. But in my mind, sometimes it's good to be a kid again, or to indulge your inner kitsch, or to remind oneself why the traditions exist.

In Sweden, regardless of the actual solstice date, Midsommar is a 2-day national holiday taking place on an adjacent Friday (when most of the celebrating occurs) and Saturday (I guess for recuperating from the hangover). It's a big deal here, and why shouldn't summer be a big deal after a long, dark, cold winter? 

The Maypole makes its appearance on Friday (remember in Sweden, it doesn't show up on May Day), and flitting about are the young girls with flower wreaths on their heads. The rain-soaked celebration we attended, (yes - my luck: it was warm and sunny the day before and clear the day after, but Friday we were huddled under our umbrellas) there was the pole, dancing, music, and of course coffee and snacks. Simple and so sweet, and for me it seemed abundant and sincere with good humor & good cheer.

For many that forego the community Maypole celebrations, Midsummer seems to be a time to relax with family and friends and enjoy the traditional meal of pickled herring, créme fraiche, chives, boiled new potatoes, fresh strawberries, snaps (shots of aquavit), and beer. A lot of simple flavors combining to create a light and refreshing summer evening repast. My mother-in-law created a beautiful dinner spread. I sampled everything and enjoyed it all - except for the herring which I don't think I would eat again even if I weren't vegetarian.

For me, Midsummer feels like a Swedish Thanksgiving (but with more alcohol) - traditional food with seasonal and positive associations, shared with loved ones, and followed with televised sports. Yep, it's the European Football (Soccer) Championship; Sweden's out.

Here's the photos, but check back in a week and hopefully I can edit and upload some goofy videos too.


Although the celebration was on the northern outskirts of Lund,
the setting was sweetly idyllic & pastoral. Roger mentioned
hobbit and shire at some point.
The weather was less idyllic, but no matter. Look at all the hardy souls
with spirits undampened. That dog is even smiling.
"Hmm, this is interesting."
And so is this...
Raising the Majstång.
Let the dancing begin!
This fellow, who stepped out of the 1800's, sang and called out the
dance instructions (Ruby and I faked like we knew what we were doing).
It's just possible I was more enthused 
than Ruby about dancing around the Maypole.
Fika, the Swedish equivalent of the Brits' tea time, includes
coffee, snacks - here it was baked goods, and for Midsummer also
elderberry and ligonberry juices.
Ruby got her pony fix for the day. Lucky for her, 
there are horses everywhere we go.
I believe these fun folks are wearing samples of Skåne's folkdräkter
(scroll down in the link for English translation), traditional clothing.
Each province has its own recognizable costume.
Radishes, chives, matjessill/pickled herring, créme fraiche mixed with dill & caviar.
My mother-in-law dressed up the new potatoes for us vegetarians.
Traditionally they're served boiled and unadorned.
Beer and snaps - perhaps crucial in washing down the herring.
A traditional Midsommar dinner, with some smoked salmon
thrown in for good measure.
And the perfect ending...
... or alternatively, this may be the perfect ending for some folks.
This aquavit had a nice hint of anise, and gave a warm "glow" to the meal.



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thanks!