Monday, May 28, 2012

NY Times visits Sweden!

My cousin, Debi, let me know about this slideshow that appeared on the New York Times website today! I love the NYT, good writing, great photos. The slideshow from the travel section gives a little flavor of Malmö, Sweden's third largest city and about a 20-minute drive from Staffanstorp. Malmö is a port city, culturally diverse and lots of folks commuting from Copenhagen (see Photo 1, the Öresund Bridge which links Denmark & Sweden). It definitely has more of an urban, cosmopolitan feel to it, which is a nice counterpoint to my days in Staffanstorp.


Out of curiosity, I searched the NYT for articles on Lund which is another city in close proximity to Staffanstorp. If you'll recall, I mentioned Lund in an earlier post, home to Ramklints Conditori. I love Lund -- the cobblestones, the soot-stained cathedral, the quaint homes and buildings, and the diversity and energy that hovers around the university. It's one of the oldest cities in Sweden, founded roughly a thousand years ago, and as an American I am intrigued whenever I walk through Lund and notice the constant reminders of its age and history. 


Two NYT links below came up for Lund, again from the travel section dated September 2011: one is a slideshow,* and the other the accompanying article


Lund Cathedral's clock


* Photo 7 - The astronomical clock in the Lund Cathedral, Lunds Domkryckais pretty fantastical! I remember doing my tourist pilgrimage here years ago - sitting in the cool, dim interior of the church, so quiet and subdued, waiting for noon to strike so the little moving figures would come out and play music. Then at 11:50, a busload of tourists came roving through and blocked my view. It was a little irritating, but comical in retrospect.


*Photo 15 - Roger says this eatery Bulong, translation is "bouillon," is fairly new. He ate there last year and mentioned that the soup was OK, but the owner was really nice and chatty - kind of the opposite of the Seinfeld soup nazi. I love soup and the idea of a soup bar! I'm eager to try out the offerings.





Thursday, May 24, 2012

Torup Castle



A happy belated Mother's Day to all you moms!


On May 13 we had a great morning outing to Torups Slott, or Torup Castle, one of Sweden's medieval castles. It's a 15-minute drive south of Staffanstorp. The existing castle foundation was built in the mid-1500s (the estate likely dates even further back, but it seems this earlier history is foggy) when Skåne (Sweden's southernmost province) was under Danish rule. In the centuries that followed it had many owners and a colorful history which includes a tragic boating and drowning incident on the lake, an infamous Danish traitor, a castle fire and being the site of a farmers' riot against an unfair conscription policy.


In 1970, the city of Malmö purchased the property and runs it as a public recreation area, with running and nature trails in the surrounding beech forest, two historical museums, educational areas, and more. It's been nicely thought out, and seems popular with the locals and I'm guessing tourists as well. The castle itself is private and leased to the estate's heir until 2035. Unfortunately for me there are no public castle tours scheduled for 2012. Our morning there we visited the café's picnic area, and ran about the castle gardens which were picturesque and serene. 


We went back the following Sunday as well, to take advantage of the great weather. We walked along one of the forest paths, and although we didn't make it as far as the museum, Ruby and I ended up being fascinated with the snails and slugs of epic proportions. 


At some point I'll have to get my running shoes on and go exploring further.

At the entrance to the castle's gardens.
Ruby being forced to pose like a tourist.
A view out of one of my
childhood storybooks.
These stakes are for growing hops. I'm unsure if the hops are being 
grown for purely exhibition and education purposes, or if there 
is a nearby brewery benefitting from the harvest.
West view of the castle. The glass sculpture by Danny Lane didn't 
quite do it for me, but there are some stunning
sculptures on his website.
Small door for small people.
Running through the woods: the idyllic childhood experience!
Wood sculpture on the trail path, to mark the spot where two kids 
picking berries had a fairy siting.
It's charming ... in a goofy kind of way.
Snail/snigel. And a hefty one at that.
Slug/skogsnigel. This one is just freakish by my standards.
Billie the Brave

Monday, May 14, 2012

Ramklints Konditori

Running errands in downtown Lund last week, I was craving coffee and a sweet snack, and got it into my head that I really wanted to have a traditional Swedish cinnamon roll, or kanelbulle. Roger suggested Ramklints Conditori, a pastry shop and bakery that's been around since the 1930s.

When we came upon the shop windows, I was enthralled. It's the kind of place I imagine seniors love, somewhere sunny and clean, that although contemporary has enough of the past still attached to it - forest green, velvet seat cushions with Ikea curtains. To me it felt like European café and bakery melded with American diner ambiance. 

The cakes and pastries, traditional as they were, to me seemed so fanciful and lovely! I had my kanelbulle which I have to say was good, but not as tasty as how I remember Roger's Aunt Gunvor's homemade ones. Ruby was in heaven with her chokladbolle, a chocolate ball consisting of cocoa powder, butter, sugar and oats. FYI, Ikea offers both of these treats (albeit sadder and poorer specimens).

That's spettekaka, or "skewer cake", on the left. It has the 
texture of a meringue cookie, and is a specialty of Skåne.
Ruby was all eyes and drool upon entering the bakery.
The traditional Swedish Princess Cake in all its green and pink marzipan glory!
Apparently that creation in the foreground is not traditional -
but clearly an homage to Swedish national pride.
The difficult choices that one faces in life ...
...are tempered by living life fully and with no regrets.



Saturday, May 12, 2012

Bonnamarknad

Bonnamarknad literally translates to "farmers' market", but doesn't equate to what farmers' market implies in U.S. cities. The regular gathering of local farmers and/or distributors to sell produce to the community, that in Sweden is just called marknad, or market.


But Bonnamarknad, as Roger explains it, is an once-a-year, kind of springtime carnival/festival, that a Swedish kommun, or county, hosts. I'm guessing it's another celebration of spring and warm weather. Perhaps in the past the farmers would bring the early harvests, and there would be music, dance, festivities. Strangely, and surely incorrectly, I'm imagining the Men Without Hats "Safety Dance" music video. I'll wait for a comment posting from Roger on that.


Today, the Bonnamarknad in Staffanstorp is a weekend celebration with pony rides, carnival rides, and street of open stall vendors hawking all the carnival food and cheap wares that one might find in any small town USA carnival. It was still fun, for the mere fact that I was experiencing it in Sweden and marveling at how kitschy trinkets and crap (that seem so American to me) transcend national borders.



Hooray for donuts! And look at those toppings.
I think marching bands are fairly popular here.
Hey, wasn't expecting these - who knew!
Wasn't expecting this either, but I love that it showed up here.
Also loving the mustard and ketchup udders.
OK, this for some reason took me by surprise. Dianetics 
followers offering stress tests to the Staffanstorp crowd. 
This horse was not keen on the paparazzi.



Tuesday, May 8, 2012

May Day Bonfire/ Majbål

May 1, or May Day, is celebrated in many northern European countries as the start of spring holiday - think dancing around the May Day Pole, lots of flowers and lovely girls. There is also, new to me -- Walpurgisnacht (German), or in Swedish - Valborgsmässoafton, celebrated on April 30 exactly six months from All Hallow's Eve during which big bonfires are lit in many cities at nightfall. Same roots though, a celebration of spring and the end of long nights.

Sweden's socialist tradition has celebrated May 1 as International Workers' Day since the 1930s. I love this place. Government and businesses close for the day and each city hosts workers' marches and speeches. I'm not sure how big a crowd the marches and speeches draw these days, as I'm guessing many people just enjoy the day off from work. I'll check it out next year. I missed the marches and speeches this year, in lieu of a day celebrating my sister-in-law's birthday with a seaside picnic. 

But we did manage to go out for the Staffanstorp May Day Bonfire, or Majbål, on April 30, Apparently during the day there are lots of students drinking heavily, perhaps like a big frat party in the parks, but the evening is more mellow with families enjoying the local bonfires. In Staffanstorp there was a band, majorettes, somebody making speeches (in Swedish, content unknown to me), and then the Scout troop marched in with torches to light the huge mound of branches and kindling. Unfortunately, the branches seemed fairly green and the whole thing took about 40 minutes of sweaty troopmasters and troop parents to get it blazing. 

Ruby suffering from jetlag, passed out before the bonfire got going. But I thought it was pretty neat.

Roger and Ruby heading up the knoll near Staffanstorp's 
waste water treatment plant where the bonfire was located.
The pre-fire show
And finally it's roaring and crackling! 
There's something so primal and fun about throwing things into a fire.  
Billie checking out the scorched earth aftermath.




Staffanstorp

We made it to Sweden and are temporarily located at my father-in-law's in Staffanstorp (pop. 22,000), a suburban community outside of Malmö in the southern province of Skåne. It took us about a week to recover from the jetlag, and the complete exhaustion of packing up a home and translocating to a new country.


I found these posters up all over Staffanstorp. Who knew?


No, I didn't go. 



En Route

 April 24, 2012  And we're off.

Cool exhibit of vintage Italian motorbikes at SFO's International Terminal.
Moto Bellissima: Italian Motorcycles form the 1950s & 1960s

iPad: essential travel accessory for toddlers on intercontinental flights


Monday, May 7, 2012

Välkommen/Welcome

Hello all, och hejsan!

At the nudging and encouragement of friends, I've started this blog to share with you my adventures and discoveries here in the north. And hopefully you will be as amused and intrigued as I am sure to be.

Things can happen in "ett ögonblick", a moment or literally - an eyeblink. More to come...

Jen